Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs extra brut

Disgorged in July 2024 without dosage, Clément Perseval’s NV Blanc de Noirs is an equal-parts blend of the 2021 and 2020 vintages. Predominantly vinified in enameled tanks, with the remainder matured in foudre, the base vintage spent 11 months on the lees, while the reserve wines rested for an additional year. The wine opens with aromas of yellow apple, red plum, tangerine zest and white flowers. On the palate, it is medium-bodied and fleshy yet incisive—capturing the hallmark tension of the cool 2021 vintage—with vivid acidity and a tangy, saline finish. The fruit is sourced from co-planted Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier vines, rooted in clay soils on the mid-slope parcels of Chamery.

Clément Perseval produced his inaugural vintage in 2010, following the transition of 2.3 hectares of vineyards from his father, who had been crafting wine under the Perseval-Farge label since 1974. All of his holdings are located in Chamery, with 1.3 hectares planted to Chardonnay in 1981, while the rest were co-planted with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in 1974.

He began the conversion to organic viticulture in 2019, and by 2022, his vineyards had received official certification. However, his commitment to living soils and fostering biodiversity dates back to the inception of his work. He typically plows once or twice a year, relying on grass cutting for the remainder of the season. In hot vintages—which Champagne is witnessing more and more frequently—he avoids trimming the vine apex and instead manually rolls the canopies to protect the fruit and soil from the sun.

Vinification is carried out using indigenous yeasts in both enameled steel tanks and seasoned barrels—approximately 10 years old—sourced from both Burgundy and Champagne. No fining or filtration is applied. Élevage is long, especially for Champagne standards, ranging from 11 to 18 months depending on the cuvée. His use of sulfites is minimal, limited to the pressing stage and for the preservation of reserve wines. All cuvées are disgorged without dosage, though they often contain up to two grams per liter of residual sugar.

These are characterful, incisive wines that merit greater recognition.