Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs extra brut Pataphysique 2018

Vinified in 228-liter barrels and disgorged in July 2024 without dosage, Guillaume Sergent’s 2018 Pataphysique was sourced from two Pinot Meunier parcels in Vrigny: Les Prés, planted in 1954 and exposed northeast, and La Fosse Saint Marcoult, planted in 1981. Bursting with aromas of pear, white peach, orange zest and dark roses interwoven with hints of pastry, it stands in stylistic contrast to Prés de Dieu. Full-bodied and broad-shouldered, it boasts a concentrated fruit core, succulent yet racy acidity and a rounded, gastronomic profile. As the vintage suggests, this is a richer, more demonstrative Champagne that is ideally suited for pairing with white meats and other culinary preparations.

Following his tenure at Maison Louis Roederer from 2004 to 2005, Guillaume Sergent took over his family's small, two-hectare estate in 2008. However, it took him several years to rejuvenate the vineyards, finally producing his first wines in 2011. The majority of his vines are situated in Vrigny, with the remainder in Coulommes-la-Montagne.

Committed to organic farming, Sergent cultivates his vineyards using a combination of horse and tractor. However, like many in the region, he applies treatments to combat mildew when necessary. His estate comprises 16 parcels, predominantly on sandy soils. Half of the vineyard is planted with Pinot Meunier, some of which is ungrafted, while the rest is divided between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. He follows the lunar calendar for pruning and, weather permitting, also for determining harvest dates.

Given the small scale of his operation, Sergent currently lacks a dedicated winemaking facility or press. Instead, he presses his grapes at the local cooperative, where he also stores his barrels. However, this aspect of production is set to change in 2025, as he plans to relocate his barrels to his own home. Despite using the cooperative’s press, he retains full control over his fruit, ensuring that each parcel is pressed separately. Fermentation occurs with native yeasts, and malolactic fermentation typically follows. Vinification takes place over seven months on the lees in secondhand barrels sourced from Burgundy and Champagne, primarily 228, 400 and 500 liters, depending on the cuvée. Sulfites are usually added only after pressing. His Champagnes are bottled at a slightly lower pressure—typically five atmospheres rather than the standard six.

These are generously structured and vinous Champagnes, characterized by tension and an incisive spine of acidity. These are reliable choices, however, with a mere 8,000 bottles produced in a favorable year, securing a bottle is no easy feat.

Published: May 08, 2025 by Kristaps Karklins