Champagne Millésime Premier Cru extra brut 2013

Disgorged in July 2024 with no dosage, Clément Perseval’s 2013 Millésime originates from both the high and mid-slope vineyards of Chamery and eloquently reflects the cool, protracted ripening season characteristic of the vintage. Comprising equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the wine was vinified half in 228-liter oak barrels and half in enameled steel tanks for 18 months. It reveals a vibrant bouquet of green apple, lemon zest, white flowers and blanched almonds. The palate is medium-bodied, linear and fine-boned, with mouthwatering acidity and an elegant, understated profile—exemplifying the vintage’s crystalline style while showing minimal signs of evolution. Technically, the pH is very low; Perseval notes that harvest began on October 2—an anomaly in Champagne’s recent history.

Clément Perseval produced his inaugural vintage in 2010, following the transition of 2.3 hectares of vineyards from his father, who had been crafting wine under the Perseval-Farge label since 1974. All of his holdings are located in Chamery, with 1.3 hectares planted to Chardonnay in 1981, while the rest were co-planted with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in 1974.

He began the conversion to organic viticulture in 2019, and by 2022, his vineyards had received official certification. However, his commitment to living soils and fostering biodiversity dates back to the inception of his work. He typically plows once or twice a year, relying on grass cutting for the remainder of the season. In hot vintages—which Champagne is witnessing more and more frequently—he avoids trimming the vine apex and instead manually rolls the canopies to protect the fruit and soil from the sun.

Vinification is carried out using indigenous yeasts in both enameled steel tanks and seasoned barrels—approximately 10 years old—sourced from both Burgundy and Champagne. No fining or filtration is applied. Élevage is long, especially for Champagne standards, ranging from 11 to 18 months depending on the cuvée. His use of sulfites is minimal, limited to the pressing stage and for the preservation of reserve wines. All cuvées are disgorged without dosage, though they often contain up to two grams per liter of residual sugar.

These are characterful, incisive wines that merit greater recognition.